Where to hang a feeder
Birds want two things from a feeding spot: a clear view of what's coming and a short dash to cover. Squirrels want the opposite. A good spot balances both.
- Windows: hang feeders within 3 feet of the glass or farther than 30 feet away. Close up, a bird leaving the feeder can't build enough speed to be hurt; far away, it sees the window as a window.
- Cover: put feeders 10 to 12 feet from shrubs or a brush pile — near enough to escape a hawk, far enough that cats can't wait in ambush.
- Height: about 5 feet off the ground suits most songbirds and makes refilling easy. Ground feeders like juncos and doves prefer a low platform.
- Spread out: several feeders a few yards apart reduce squabbling and keep one aggressive species from owning the yard.
Keeping feeders clean
Crowded, dirty feeders spread disease — salmonella in winter flocks and eye infections in house finches are the ones you're most likely to see.
- Scrub seed feeders every two weeks, more often in wet weather. Use one part household bleach to nine parts water, rinse well and let them dry completely before refilling.
- Rake up hulls and wet seed under feeders so it doesn't mold.
- Empty and wash hummingbird feeders every 2–3 days in warm weather, and whenever the nectar turns cloudy.
- If you see sick birds — fluffed up, lethargic or with crusty eyes — take feeders down for a week and clean everything before rehanging.
Beating the squirrels
Squirrels can leap about 10 feet sideways and 5 feet straight up. Almost every squirrel problem is a spacing problem.
- Pole plus baffle. Set a pole 10 feet from trees, fences and roof lines, and mount a baffle with its lower edge at least 4 feet off the ground. This is the most reliable setup there is.
- Hanging baffles work when there's at least 6 inches between the baffle and the branch above, and the feeder hangs 5 feet or more off the ground.
- Weight-activated feeders close their ports when something heavier than a songbird lands. They handle squirrels and big blackbird flocks alike.
- Seed choice. Safflower and nyjer interest squirrels far less than sunflower. Hot pepper seed works too, but try the other steps first.
Nest box hole sizes
The entrance hole decides who moves in. A hole that's too big lets in house sparrows and starlings, which will take over boxes meant for native birds.
| Bird | Entrance hole | Mounting height |
|---|---|---|
| House wren | 1 to 1-1/8 in | 5–10 ft |
| Black-capped chickadee | 1-1/8 in | 5–15 ft |
| Carolina wren | 1-1/2 in | 5–10 ft |
| Eastern bluebird | 1-1/2 in | 4–6 ft |
| Tree swallow | 1-1/2 in | 4–6 ft |
| White-breasted nuthatch | 1-1/4 in | 5–15 ft |
| Eastern screech-owl | 3 in | 10–20 ft |
Face the entrance away from prevailing wind, add a predator guard on pole-mounted boxes, and clean out old nest material after each brood. Boxes should always have ventilation gaps and drainage holes — every box we carry does.
Water all year
A bath brings in birds that never touch a feeder: warblers, thrushes, robins and waxwings.
- Keep water 1 to 2 inches deep. A few flat stones give small birds a shallow edge.
- Moving water — a dripper, mister or small solar fountain — is the strongest attraction there is.
- In winter, use a thermostat-controlled heater or a heated bath. Never add glycerin or antifreeze.
- Change the water every other day and scrub the basin weekly to keep algae and mosquitoes down.
Hummingbird and oriole nectar
- Make small batches and store extra in the fridge for up to a week.
- Change nectar every 2–3 days in warm weather, daily above 90°F.
- Orioles take the same nectar at a slightly stronger 1:3 ratio, plus orange halves and grape jelly in small dishes.
- In fall, leave feeders up until two weeks after you see your last hummingbird. Feeders don't delay migration; late travelers depend on them.
